I was at a nice restaurant last Friday, lovely balmy evening around 25C, and we were almost al fresco sitting at the front of the premises where the doors were wide open. They had a good wine list and great food. The unfortunate thing was the Cab Sav was already warm when delivered, and only got warmer when exposed to the lovely evening air.
The crazy thing is the white wine the ladies had, and I'm not claiming whites are for ladies only (though my mate Brian might), was served chilled and with a wine bucket to keep it cool. So the restaurant took the most care of the cheaper white wine made in stainless steel and that was barely 10 months old, and left the Cab, which the winemaker had nurtured for 3 years, to stew in the warm air.
It's about time Australia realised that "room temperature" for red wine
is too warm, especially in summer. A Cabernet Sauvignon, like most reds, is best served
around 15C, with even 20C really being the upper limit. Pleasant
temperatures for humans isn't so great for red wines.
At home this warm weather I don't stop drinking reds, they either get around 30-60 mins in the normal fridge or come from my wine fridge which is 13C. I then put it in an insulated wine bucket. I also have this little round plastic chiller brick thing that I put in the bottom that is perfectly shaped for the bucket and works better than ice would.
If you overchill your red, it will warm up in the glass anyway, possibly with help from a warm hand. I reckon that's far preferable to sticking in an ice cube, as I've heard of some desperate people doing to a too warm wine. It is after all without external means, considerably easier to warm a wine than to cool it.
The better reds for summer are Grenache, Mataro, Tempranillo, and of course blends of those, but I'd encourage you to always cool your Shiraz and Cabs back down to ~15C to have with a nice BBQ steak or ribs.
I wasn't paying for the reds last week, but I regret not asking for an ice bucket so that I could have enjoyed them as much as the food. I didn't want to seem like a wine wanker, but on the flip side I would not have hesitated to ask for an ice bucket for a Riesling in the same conditions.
There's probably a few guides out there, but I suggest 13C is about as low as you want to go, 15-16C is ideal, and 20C as mentioned before almost too warm.
Friday, December 23, 2011
Friday, December 9, 2011
McLeans Farm Mataro Shiraz 2009
I spent a couple of very educational and enjoyable hours with Bob McLean this afternoon. I had sought him out because I'd randomly picked up his 2005 Shiraz Mataro, which was drinking beautifully earlier this year.
His vineyard and cellar door are up on Mengler's Hill, which is effectively the border between the Barossa Valley and the Eden Valley. Hence he uses the term Barr-Eden to describe his vineyard's terroir, which is at an altitude of 477-510m.
His Mataro vines are the highest in the region, and surprisingly, to me at least, they are grown as bush vines, which is a method far more common to Grenache, which he also has planted there.
Bob has been experimenting since at least 2005 blending various amounts of Shiraz, Mataro and Grenache. He very generously gave me effectively a vertical tasting of those, and just in case someone has one of those extremely rare bottles I'll give a quick overview, but the main purpose was to get an idea of where the wines are headed as a style.
The 2006 was a Grenache Shiraz Mataro, possibly not with respect to percentages in that order. The wine is excellent right now. It had a tiny bit of carbonation at first, which I don't see as a fault as it blows off fairly fast, but I mention it because it does mask other flavours. Regardless it needs to breath at least 30 mins, and longer is better. It's complex, intense, balanced and downright delicious. It saw only old oak and whilst Bob felt perhaps it could have used more I didn't find it lacking. This was the best wine of the day, mostly due to it's age developed complexity and poise.
No 2007 left, so to the 2008 Mataro Shiraz (sold out) , which I think was roughly a 70/30 blend. An intense wine initially, but settled down well to show more complexity. Bob felt it a bit steely but I more thought it showed a slight touch of raisin character from the hot vintage. Again good balance, acid in harmony with fruit intensity. Perhaps slightly sleazy but you're not always looking for a girl to take home to mum.
The current vintage is 2009 Mataro Shiraz and sans notes I'm remembering this as being 50/50. I've got a bottle of this open right now so I'll try to be a little more accurate with this one. Initially both aroma and palate somewhat closed, at least compared to the older wines, but it's had 6 hours breathing now and both have opened right up. The Mataro is quite obvious with it's chorizo sausage and olive characters dancing around with the plums of the Shiraz. But whilst both are great dancers it's more like they're doing jazz ballet rather than a tango just now, but time will bring them closer together. Tannins quite fine, the gum licking acid is highly suited to a good meal. Very classy.
I also tried the 2010 which was effectively a barrel sample and found it hard to get past the tannins at this stage, but that's often the story with Mataro, it's just not a drink young grape, hence it often being teamed with Grenache. However I tasted enough to want to seek it out again next year.
The 2009 gets a Highly Recommended++ and **** especially given the very low production.
His vineyard and cellar door are up on Mengler's Hill, which is effectively the border between the Barossa Valley and the Eden Valley. Hence he uses the term Barr-Eden to describe his vineyard's terroir, which is at an altitude of 477-510m.
His Mataro vines are the highest in the region, and surprisingly, to me at least, they are grown as bush vines, which is a method far more common to Grenache, which he also has planted there.
Bob has been experimenting since at least 2005 blending various amounts of Shiraz, Mataro and Grenache. He very generously gave me effectively a vertical tasting of those, and just in case someone has one of those extremely rare bottles I'll give a quick overview, but the main purpose was to get an idea of where the wines are headed as a style.
The 2006 was a Grenache Shiraz Mataro, possibly not with respect to percentages in that order. The wine is excellent right now. It had a tiny bit of carbonation at first, which I don't see as a fault as it blows off fairly fast, but I mention it because it does mask other flavours. Regardless it needs to breath at least 30 mins, and longer is better. It's complex, intense, balanced and downright delicious. It saw only old oak and whilst Bob felt perhaps it could have used more I didn't find it lacking. This was the best wine of the day, mostly due to it's age developed complexity and poise.
No 2007 left, so to the 2008 Mataro Shiraz (sold out) , which I think was roughly a 70/30 blend. An intense wine initially, but settled down well to show more complexity. Bob felt it a bit steely but I more thought it showed a slight touch of raisin character from the hot vintage. Again good balance, acid in harmony with fruit intensity. Perhaps slightly sleazy but you're not always looking for a girl to take home to mum.
The current vintage is 2009 Mataro Shiraz and sans notes I'm remembering this as being 50/50. I've got a bottle of this open right now so I'll try to be a little more accurate with this one. Initially both aroma and palate somewhat closed, at least compared to the older wines, but it's had 6 hours breathing now and both have opened right up. The Mataro is quite obvious with it's chorizo sausage and olive characters dancing around with the plums of the Shiraz. But whilst both are great dancers it's more like they're doing jazz ballet rather than a tango just now, but time will bring them closer together. Tannins quite fine, the gum licking acid is highly suited to a good meal. Very classy.
I also tried the 2010 which was effectively a barrel sample and found it hard to get past the tannins at this stage, but that's often the story with Mataro, it's just not a drink young grape, hence it often being teamed with Grenache. However I tasted enough to want to seek it out again next year.
The 2009 gets a Highly Recommended++ and **** especially given the very low production.
Wednesday, December 7, 2011
Sieber Road 2009 GSM
It smelt bloody good pouring it in the decanter, and 2 hours later it smells even better in my glass.
I'm not a huge fan of Grenache, but the Frenchies in Rhone got it right when they blended it with Shiraz and Mourvedre. This is luscious and slurpable. Not sure whether to lick my chops or suck on the glass.
I really like all these Sieber Road wines, and I sometimes wonder whether I've been swayed to buying them by the very affable Val Sieber. Then again, when I enjoy them this much I don't really care.
This is everything I want in a slightly lighter weight wine for summer drinking, it's red fruit dominant but there's some black and blue too, tannins not too challenging for a warm evening, and just the right amount of acid for food or sipping slightly chilled (about 15C).
Recommended and ****, particularly good value in dozens from their website or cellar door.
I'm not a huge fan of Grenache, but the Frenchies in Rhone got it right when they blended it with Shiraz and Mourvedre. This is luscious and slurpable. Not sure whether to lick my chops or suck on the glass.
I really like all these Sieber Road wines, and I sometimes wonder whether I've been swayed to buying them by the very affable Val Sieber. Then again, when I enjoy them this much I don't really care.
This is everything I want in a slightly lighter weight wine for summer drinking, it's red fruit dominant but there's some black and blue too, tannins not too challenging for a warm evening, and just the right amount of acid for food or sipping slightly chilled (about 15C).
Recommended and ****, particularly good value in dozens from their website or cellar door.
Wednesday, November 30, 2011
Marius Simpatico Shiraz 2008
I've talked about this wine before but never really done a tasting note. That's largely because Philip White, Gary Walsh and James Halliday have already given it glowing reviews, so what can I add?
Well, I'm not a professional reviewer, I am a customer, so perhaps other potential customers might appreciate that point of view.
Simpo 08, as my case of this is labelled, is almost 4 years old now, and it's been interesting to try this wine over the last 8 months or so. When I first tried it in March what stood out to me was a savoury character that I associate with Schwarzwälder Schinken, or Black Forest ham in English. This is not to say that it's the most forward characteristic of the wine, but that it is the unusual overtone that makes this different to your typical plum, chocolate and licorice McLaren Vale Shiraz. That is to say, it's a strong hint of the complexity of this wine.
Tonight I still picked up on that aroma but it's slightly different now, it's a bit more like a xmas dinner. There is still the ham, and of course some fresh cherries and blackberries, but I can also smell the spices in the family recipe (obligatory but very much looked forward to) xmas pudding.
The other thing about this wine is that the bloody thing vanishes from your glass too quickly. It's like being a kid opening xmas presents as fast as you can tear off the paper, there's a head rush, you're in the moment, and then, the moment is over. The bottle is empty. Too soon Executus!
So, let me check if all the clever buggers previously noted above missed anything I need to tell you about this wine...hmm, nope they've pretty much nailed it between them. Actually, there is one thing they haven't actually said clearly enough - you really should get some of this!
Scoring or rating this wine is in many ways rather limiting. It is a wine of such character and singularity that even it's brother Symphony is but a fraternal twin with promise. Excellent and *****
Well, I'm not a professional reviewer, I am a customer, so perhaps other potential customers might appreciate that point of view.
Simpo 08, as my case of this is labelled, is almost 4 years old now, and it's been interesting to try this wine over the last 8 months or so. When I first tried it in March what stood out to me was a savoury character that I associate with Schwarzwälder Schinken, or Black Forest ham in English. This is not to say that it's the most forward characteristic of the wine, but that it is the unusual overtone that makes this different to your typical plum, chocolate and licorice McLaren Vale Shiraz. That is to say, it's a strong hint of the complexity of this wine.
Tonight I still picked up on that aroma but it's slightly different now, it's a bit more like a xmas dinner. There is still the ham, and of course some fresh cherries and blackberries, but I can also smell the spices in the family recipe (obligatory but very much looked forward to) xmas pudding.
The other thing about this wine is that the bloody thing vanishes from your glass too quickly. It's like being a kid opening xmas presents as fast as you can tear off the paper, there's a head rush, you're in the moment, and then, the moment is over. The bottle is empty. Too soon Executus!
So, let me check if all the clever buggers previously noted above missed anything I need to tell you about this wine...hmm, nope they've pretty much nailed it between them. Actually, there is one thing they haven't actually said clearly enough - you really should get some of this!
Scoring or rating this wine is in many ways rather limiting. It is a wine of such character and singularity that even it's brother Symphony is but a fraternal twin with promise. Excellent and *****
Sunday, November 27, 2011
Kimbolton Brad's Block Montepulciano 2008
This is the full Monty.
Sorry, couldn't resist, but it's true. Montepulciano is not exactly commonly available in Australia, and much more rarely is it grown here. There are barely more than a handful of winemakers putting it on their labels at this time.
Montepulciano in Australia is often seen in wines from Abruzzi, as Montepulciano d'Abruzzo of which you might have come across the $10 Gran Sasso. So let me first say this Aussie version is fairly different in style to that one which is somewhat lighter.
Aromas of leather, mushroom and cigar box. On the palate it's full bodied with blackberries, cherries and kalamata olives. The tannins whilst substantial are not dry or grippy owing to excellent balance with the almost crisp acidity.
This is a savory wine, a food wine, and a wine that makes you think about it. Top marks for being fairly different and thoroughly suited to a slight chill for dinners in summer.
Rated Highly Recommended and ****, though I am somewhat swayed to that score because I think this is worth seeking out simply for it's difference.
Available from the The Winehouse, Langhorne Creek, whom I link because there is a retailer with a similar name.
Sorry, couldn't resist, but it's true. Montepulciano is not exactly commonly available in Australia, and much more rarely is it grown here. There are barely more than a handful of winemakers putting it on their labels at this time.
Montepulciano in Australia is often seen in wines from Abruzzi, as Montepulciano d'Abruzzo of which you might have come across the $10 Gran Sasso. So let me first say this Aussie version is fairly different in style to that one which is somewhat lighter.
Aromas of leather, mushroom and cigar box. On the palate it's full bodied with blackberries, cherries and kalamata olives. The tannins whilst substantial are not dry or grippy owing to excellent balance with the almost crisp acidity.
This is a savory wine, a food wine, and a wine that makes you think about it. Top marks for being fairly different and thoroughly suited to a slight chill for dinners in summer.
Rated Highly Recommended and ****, though I am somewhat swayed to that score because I think this is worth seeking out simply for it's difference.
Available from the The Winehouse, Langhorne Creek, whom I link because there is a retailer with a similar name.
Thursday, November 24, 2011
Warrabilla Reserve Durif 2009
It's not normally Warrabilla red weather in late November, but it's a chilly 16 this evenin' and will get down to 14C. So I thought I'd take the opportunity to enjoy this before summer sets in.
Often when I watch a movie, even if I enjoy it, I feel like I'm there sitting in a cinema watching a movie. I'm just a voyeur. Sometimes though, the movie really drags me in and I feel a part of the story. I jump in my seat, lean forward, tense up and sometimes even get emotional. I come out of the cinema feeling like I just experienced what happened in the movie.
This Warrabilla Durif is not just a mix of aromas and flavours, it's an experience.
I've re-written this blog about five times now, because this wine is so hard to describe. Normally you'd describe a wine by referring to other flavours and aromas, those that the reader will likely have personal knowledge of. But with this wine, unless you know the Warrabilla style, and how it applies to Durif, I reckon I'd sound like a fool. Whitey would nail it though, he'd have gunpowder and black snakes in it, and he'd makes sense to you.
So, who cares what the reviewers say, go see this movie for yourself and experience it first hand. Better yet, take the ride at Warrabilla World, it's in 3D, surround sound and the seats vibrate and tilt - or they will after a few glasses. Buy the Blu-Ray too, you'll want to watch this over the next 10 years or so.
Rated Excellent and *****
Often when I watch a movie, even if I enjoy it, I feel like I'm there sitting in a cinema watching a movie. I'm just a voyeur. Sometimes though, the movie really drags me in and I feel a part of the story. I jump in my seat, lean forward, tense up and sometimes even get emotional. I come out of the cinema feeling like I just experienced what happened in the movie.
This Warrabilla Durif is not just a mix of aromas and flavours, it's an experience.
I've re-written this blog about five times now, because this wine is so hard to describe. Normally you'd describe a wine by referring to other flavours and aromas, those that the reader will likely have personal knowledge of. But with this wine, unless you know the Warrabilla style, and how it applies to Durif, I reckon I'd sound like a fool. Whitey would nail it though, he'd have gunpowder and black snakes in it, and he'd makes sense to you.
So, who cares what the reviewers say, go see this movie for yourself and experience it first hand. Better yet, take the ride at Warrabilla World, it's in 3D, surround sound and the seats vibrate and tilt - or they will after a few glasses. Buy the Blu-Ray too, you'll want to watch this over the next 10 years or so.
Rated Excellent and *****
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
Lazy Ballerina Shiraz 2009
I opened a bottle of this a little while ago, took some notes, intended to write them up here, and then lost them. It's not unusual for me to lose things, but this time I feel it was Freudian - I needed an excuse to open another bottle.
This wine is also a reminder to me why I don't review wines unless I can spend time with them. I tried this at cellar door, and it was clearly a very good wine but it didn't blow me away as much as the 2008 did at the same time last year. Apparently my taste buds hadn't quite woken up at cellar door. They're wide awake now.
Magnificent colour pouring into the decanter, almost iridescent purple and crimson. Loving this colour is probably Freudian too. Growing up, we had a plum tree in the backyard, and at least one time I recall my brother and I having a plum fight. We spent quite some time hosing off the plums before Mum and Dad got home, which is a shame really because the house looked brilliant with purple polka dots.
Fabulous nose. Red cherries, blueberries, a hint of fennel and lurking around in the background is something dark and wicked. You know how when you're at a party with loud music and you're trying to talk to some lady who isn't your lady and you have to lean in quite close to them to yell in their ear (for guys I just yell louder). Well, sometimes they smell quite nice, wickedly nice. I think they've been dabbing LazyB Shiraz behind their ears instead of perfume.
I don't think my wife reads this blog. You'll know if she does when the posts stop suddenly.
The flavours are complex. It's like being in your car at a train crossing, waiting as a freight train goes past. You sit there trying to read the graffiti on each carriage, but just as you've almost worked out what the word was, another one appears. And then another. Quite a lot more follow. So please forgive my failed taste buds if they can't get beyond "yum".
Tannins fine and velvety but they really need more time yet. Acid perfectly matches that though. This wine will age well, so unlike me try to hide it away for 2-3 years, but get enough you can drink it for a lot more years than that.
James Hook, the winemaker, told me he gets almost ill with apprehension when he releases a new wine. Clearly it's not because he fears the wine's quality, but just because he cares so much about what he's created. I love that.
Rated Excellent++ and ****.
This wine is also a reminder to me why I don't review wines unless I can spend time with them. I tried this at cellar door, and it was clearly a very good wine but it didn't blow me away as much as the 2008 did at the same time last year. Apparently my taste buds hadn't quite woken up at cellar door. They're wide awake now.
Magnificent colour pouring into the decanter, almost iridescent purple and crimson. Loving this colour is probably Freudian too. Growing up, we had a plum tree in the backyard, and at least one time I recall my brother and I having a plum fight. We spent quite some time hosing off the plums before Mum and Dad got home, which is a shame really because the house looked brilliant with purple polka dots.
Fabulous nose. Red cherries, blueberries, a hint of fennel and lurking around in the background is something dark and wicked. You know how when you're at a party with loud music and you're trying to talk to some lady who isn't your lady and you have to lean in quite close to them to yell in their ear (for guys I just yell louder). Well, sometimes they smell quite nice, wickedly nice. I think they've been dabbing LazyB Shiraz behind their ears instead of perfume.
I don't think my wife reads this blog. You'll know if she does when the posts stop suddenly.
The flavours are complex. It's like being in your car at a train crossing, waiting as a freight train goes past. You sit there trying to read the graffiti on each carriage, but just as you've almost worked out what the word was, another one appears. And then another. Quite a lot more follow. So please forgive my failed taste buds if they can't get beyond "yum".
Tannins fine and velvety but they really need more time yet. Acid perfectly matches that though. This wine will age well, so unlike me try to hide it away for 2-3 years, but get enough you can drink it for a lot more years than that.
James Hook, the winemaker, told me he gets almost ill with apprehension when he releases a new wine. Clearly it's not because he fears the wine's quality, but just because he cares so much about what he's created. I love that.
Rated Excellent++ and ****.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)